Many homeowners in the Lexington area are unaware of the health problems that poor indoor air quality can introduce in their homes. Poor air quality makes your home host to all kinds of contaminants that pose serious health and safety risks to you and your family. Radon is one such contaminant that is frequently found in this area. That’s why we at Synergy Home are now offering radon mitigation services to help Kentucky homeowners make their homes safer for their families.
What Is Radon?
Radon is a colorless, odorless radioactive gas produced by the decay of uranium in soil and rock. It occurs naturally in the environment and is typically found in the air and water. The average outdoor radon level is 0.4 pCi/L, but in higher concentrations of 4 pCi/L or more, exposure to it can be very dangerous. No matter if your home is in Louisville, Nicholasville, Lexington or Richmond, there is some amount of radon in your home.
What Makes Radon So Dangerous?
The U.S. Surgeon General, World Health Organization (WHO), and Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) all encourage homeowners to have their air tested for radon due to the serious health risks associated with prolonged exposure. WHO advises that in homes that exhibit radon concentration levels of just 2.7 pCi/L or more, action should be taken immediately to reduce radon levels. Health risks are significantly higher in homes and buildings with radon concentration levels of 4 pCi/L or more. Radon exposure is most strongly linked with lung cancer. In fact, over 20,000 Americans die of radon-related lung cancer every year. According to EPA, radon exposure is the leading cause of lung cancer in nonsmokers and the second leading cause of lung cancer overall. This means that if you are exposed to high concentrations of radon in your home, you could be at a higher risk of developing lung cancer. This risk is especially high in children, who may be at almost twice the risk as adults. People with respiratory diseases such as asthma and emphysema are also particularly susceptible effects from radon exposure. The American Lung Association has noted that many people with early stage lung cancer do not have symptoms. In those who do have symptoms, these symptoms are the most common:
A chronic cough, or “smoker’s cough”
A cough that doesn’t go away and gets worse over time
Shortness of breath
Wheezing
Hoarseness
Constant chest pain
Frequent lung infections such as or bronchitis or pneumonia
Coughing up blood
The Importance of Crawlspace Encapsulation
Radon emanates from fractured bedrock and seeps into your home through cracks in the foundation. If you have a crawl space, encapsulating that area is essential for minimizing exposure to radon. Crawl space encapsulation involves installing a tightly sealed vapor barrier along the floor, walls, and ceiling to prevent moisture and air infiltration. Additionally, insulating the foundation walls and installing a dehumidifier will increase the effectiveness of encapsulation. When done right, crawl space encapsulation can control humidity levels, improve indoor air quality, and aid in radon mitigation efforts.
How Synergy Heals Your Home
It’s important to know what’s in the air you’re breathing. Synergy’s radon mitigation services can ensure that you and your family remain free from the risks posed by radon exposure. Our certified contractors can evaluate your home and install a custom solution to fit your needs and keep you safe. A radon mitigation system will draw all the potentially deadly gas out of the air and safely vent it away from your home, and it’s all backed by a 10-year guarantee! Radon mitigation is only one of the solutions we offer to improve the health and safety of your greater Lexington area home. There may be a host of other upgrades that will also work to improve the air quality and efficiency, meaning your home is safer and costs less to keep running. Using our “house as a system” approach, we can help you make decisions that perfectly complement each other. Whether you need to install additional insulation, upgrade to a more efficient HVAC system, install solar panels, or cut down on the humidity in your home, we at Synergy have the expertise and experience to get the job done right and leave you satisfied for years to come. Worried about how radon exposure might harm you and your family? Call (800) 323-2653 or contact us for more information about our radon mitigation services.
Radon isn’t often talked about or though about, but it is a threat
for homeowners and residents. If you haven’t yet tested for radon,
you should do so immediately. Based on the results of said test,
consider looking into radon mitigation systems.
The purpose of a radon mitigation system is to decrease the amount
of radon in the home. Radon is a gas that is odorless and tasteless,
created from decomposing uranium found in water, soil, and rocks.
Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer.
This makes having a proper radon mitigation system important. Many
people labor under the false belief that an air conditioning system
may help with radon, but conditioned or cooled air is not necessarily
decontaminated air. This article will go over various types of radon
mitigation systems that could be installed in your home.
1. Active Suction
Radon mitigation systems that use active suction are often limited
to homes that have a concrete slab basement or basements on a
gradient because radon gas has a tendency to build up under the
concrete of a basement foundation.
Eventually small cracks form in the concrete from normal wear and
tear, and the built up gas escapes and enters the home.
The active suction system is named as such because it involves an
electrical vent fan, an electrical monitoring system, and a vent pipe
placed between sub-slab gravel that stretches up to a point above the
roof on the outside of the home.
When the fan runs, it has just enough power to keep radon from
gathering under the home. Remaining cracks in the basement concrete
get sealed. This not only makes it so that the only point of exit for
the trapped sub-slab radon is the exit vent of the system, but also
decreases the loss of the conditioned air.
2. Passive Suction
These types of radon mitigation systems are typically installed
when a house is being constructed. The home is built with differing
pressures in various rooms and parts of the house. This is done so
that you do not need an active trigger for ventilation, such as the
electrical fan described above. The natural pressure differential is
enough to encourage the flow of air in a specific direction.
A duct system is then installed to take advantage of that air flow
and to guide the radon out and away from the home. Passive suction
radon mitigation systems are only good in homes that have very low
levels of radon. Passive suction also cannot be installed in older
homes due to the specifics needs on a room-by-room basis.
3. Pressure Systems
Pressure systems are not so much systems as they are just an
intervention on your part. Rather than relying on the conscious
decisions of a builder or installer to create a duct system or a
beneficial difference in pressure, this method involves you, the
resident, to keep windows and doors closed in the lower sections of
your home more often than they are open. Essentially you are creating
pressure by having air forced in to the home. This pressure will
prevent the radon gas from coming up through the foundation of the
home.
4. Sub-membrane
This is another type of suction radon mitigation system. This is
especially helpful in a home that has a crawlspace, even more so if
the floor is dirt or loose gravel. The floor of the crawlspace is
covered with a heavy plastic sheet. A channel is created, and
eventually a fan and a pipe that leads outdoors are installed. The
radon gas is flushed out of the home under the plastic sheet.
It’s similar to the active system already described, with the
notable difference being that instead of allowing the gas to become
trapped or collected under a basement slab of concrete before
venting, in this scenario your pre-vent collection area is the
plastic sheet membrane.
Other Options
New emerging methods now exist, but they are still flawed and
evolving. For example, heat recovery ventilators (HRV) as well as
energy recovery ventilators (ERV) are viable methods of venting radon
from your home, but the overall success is climate dependent. These
systems work well where it is hot, but in areas with higher humidity,
they encourage an excess of moisture and have been reported to cause
serious mold problems.
Radon is everywhere and fixing a radon problem is very
straight-forward.
Second…
… if you have performed only a single test, the US EPA
recommends a follow-up test before fixing your home. Radon levels
fluctuate naturally and it is important to know if the initial test
was an accurate assessment of your home’s average radon level or
whether the high levels could have been caused by unusual weather.
How To Follow-Up Your First Test
If your first test has a result between 4 and 8 pCi/L, you have
the choice of testing again. If results are needed quickly, you can
re-test with a short-term (2-7 days) device. For a better
understanding of your home’s year-round average, you can test with
a long-term (3-12 months) device.
If the results of your first test are higher than 8 pCi/L, then it
is recommended that you test again using another short-term test
device. The higher the radon concentration above 8 pCi/L, the sooner
you should conduct a retest.
Interpreting Your Follow-Up Results
If you are involved in a real estate transaction,
fixing the house prior to sale is recommended if the average of your
original and follow-up tests are 4.0 pCi/L or higher.
If you chose a long-term device for your second test, the EPA
recommends fixing your home if the follow-up result is 4.0 pCi/L or
higher.
If the results of your follow-up test with a short-term test are
still 4.0 pCi/L or higher, you are urged to consider fixing your
home.
If your follow-up test results are below the 4.0 pCi/L EPA
action level, you should test again sometime in the future because
your initial test has shown that your house has the potential to
produce high radon levels at times.
Radon Mitigation
If you have performed a follow-up test and the radon level needs
to be reduced, you have several options.
If you want to hire a professional, qualified radon mitigation
contractors are available across the country. Some states require
contractors maintain a state license, so you may want to contact your
state radon office for a list of qualified individuals. Although most
states do not require licenses, it is very important to use a
properly-trained mitigator. The National Environmental Health
Association (NEHA) administers a voluntary National Radon Proficiency
Program (NRPP) for radon professionals who want to take training
courses and examinations to demonstrate their competency. The NEHA
NRPP website maintains lists of certified radon mitigators, radon
measurement service providers, and analytical laboratories. Follow
the link, choose the service you seek and then narrow your search by
state.
If you or a friend are a do-it-yourselfer, Air Chek offers a
do-it-yourself radon reduction manual written by Doug Kladder, one of
the country’s most experienced radon mitigators. Kladder also
teaches introductory-level radon mitigation courses. His book
features chapters on different building foundations (basement, crawl
space, slab on grade), as well as new construction approaches to
prevent radon entry into new homes. View the Table of Contents to get
an idea of what’s inside. The book can be purchased online for only
$39.95, including shipping and handling. You can use our secure
online order site or you can call us at 800-AIR-CHEK during regular
business hours. You can also mail a check or money order to Air Chek,
Inc., PO BOX 2000, Naples, NC 28760.
Kladder also created the EPA slideshow on our website, which has a
unit on mitigation approaches.
If you are looking for some DIY mitigation supplies and detailed
how-to instructions check out: Radon1.
Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer after
cigarette smoking. If you smoke and live in a home with high radon
levels, you increase your risk of developing lung cancer. Having your
home tested is the only effective way to determine whether you and
your family are at risk of high radon exposure.
Radon is a radioactive gas that forms naturally when uranium,
thorium, or radium, which are radioactive metals break down in rocks,
soil and groundwater. People can be exposed to radon primarily from
breathing radon in air that comes through cracks and gaps in
buildings and homes. Because radon comes naturally from the earth,
people are always exposed to it.
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the Surgeon General’s
office estimate radon is responsible for more than 20,000 lung cancer
deaths each year in the U.S. When you breathe in radon, radioactive
particles from radon gas can get trapped in your lungs. Over time,
these radioactive particles increase the risk of lung cancer. It may
take years before health problems appear.
People who smoke and are exposed to radon are at a greater risk of
developing lung cancer. EPA recommends taking action to reduce radon
in homes that have a radon level at or above 4 picocuries per liter
(pCi/L) of air (a “picocurie” is a common unit for measuring the
amount of radioactivity).
Your chances of getting lung cancer from radon depend mostly on:
How much radon is in your
home–the location where you spend most of your time (e.g., the
main living and sleeping areas)
The amount of time you spend in
your home
Whether you are a smoker or have
ever smoked
Whether you burn wood, coal, or other substances that add
particles to the indoor air
The chances of getting lung cancer are higher if your home has
elevated radon levels and you smoke or burn fuels that increase
indoor particles.
Having your home
tested is the only effective way to determine whether you and your
family are exposed to high levels of radon. Steps you can take to
measure and reduce radon levels include:
Testing is inexpensive and easy
— it should only take a few minutes of your time. It requires
opening a package and placing a small measuring device in a room
and leaving it there for the desired period. Short-term testing can
take from a few days to 90 days. Long-term testing takes more than
90 days. The longer the test, the more relevant the results are to
your home and lifestyle.
Sending the kit to appropriate
sources to determine radon level
Follow the directions on the
test kit packaging to find out where to send the device to get the
results.
More Ways to Take Action
The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development recommends
additional actions you can take to reduce high radon levels in your
home and protect yourself from an increased risk of lung cancer.
For more information on testing your home, check out our website
or call us at 800-323-2653
Stop smoking and
discourage smoking in your home.
Smoking significantly increases
the risk of lung cancer from radon.
Increase air flow in
your house by opening windows and using fans and vents to circulate
air.
Natural ventilation in any type
of house is only a temporary strategy to reduce radon.
Seal cracks in floors
and walls with plaster, caulk, or other materials
designed for this purpose.
Contact your state radon office
for a list of qualified contractors in your area and for
information on how to fix radon problems yourself. Always test
again after finishing to make sure you’ve fixed your radon
problem.
Ask about radon
resistant construction techniques if you are buying
a new home.
It is almost always cheaper and easier to build these
features into new homes than to add them later.
Radon is an odorless, radioactive gas formed by the breakdown of uranium found in soil, rocks beneath and around building foundations, ground water wells, and some building materials.
n 2011, NCHH’s Rebecca Morley visited the Dr. Oz show to talk about radon in the home. She provided tips on testing and remediating homes for radon. Explore the resources below to learn more about the dangers of radon and how to protect yourself and your family. You can also check out the clips from the Dr. Oz show here or read an article about radon in your home.
Health Impacts
Though it does not elicit immediate symptoms, exposure to radon in homes can increase the risk of lung cancer. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) estimates that radon is the leading cause of lung cancer in nonsmokers, responsible for as many as 21,000 cancer deaths each year. The combination of smoking and the presence of radon in the home can significantly increase the risk of lung cancer.
Common Locations
According to EPA, nearly one out of every 15 homes in the U.S. has elevated radon levels. Radon may be present in any home or building, regardless of age. Because radon is a gas, it can leak into homes through the basement or crawl space, cracks in concrete floors and walls, floor drains and sump holes, or through well water. Any home may have a radon problem—new or old, well-sealed or drafty, with or without a basement.
Radon from soil is the main source of exposure. Health risks from radon in drinking water are much lower and are only a significant concern in certain parts of the country. The largest risk from radon-contaminated water comes from the gas being released into the air when water is used for showering and other household purposes.
Radon levels vary nationally. EPA publishes maps of the country and each state, assigning each county to one of three zones based on the expected average radon level in a typical home. While designed to guide building construction standards, the maps are helpful in understanding the regional differences in radon levels. However,any home in any zone can contain elevated radon levels.
Testing for Radon
Because radon is invisible, odorless, and tasteless, testing is the only way to know if a home has a high concentration of radon. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend that all residences below the third floor of a building be tested for radon. Both schools and homes should be tested. In apartment buildings, it is most important to test units on the basement level where radon from the ground is likely to be highest, though tests should also be conducted on the first and second floors of any apartment complex.
Anyone can conduct a radon test. There are both short-term and long-term radon tests. EPA recommends initial measurements for radon be taken with short-term tests placed in the lowest lived-in level of the residence. Radon testing kits are available at a discounted price from the National Safety Council’s Radon Hotline (1-800-767-7236) and at various retail locations such as hardware stores. Almost all states recommend that the homeowner or tenant conduct the test himself or herself or hire a contractor who is certified by the National Environmental Health Association or the National Radon Safety Board. A list of certified testers can be obtained by contacting the radon office in the relevant state, the National Environmental Health Association’s Radon Proficiency Program, or the National Radon Safety Board.
Once a radon test has been obtained, the enclosed directions are usually easy to follow and the procedure is simple and straightforward. Typically, the process will consist of setting out a small canister or packet containing activated carbon in the lowest occupied portion of the home and then, two days later, collecting the container, placing it in a foil bag, and mailing it to a lab. The lab should be able to report the results within one week. Find out more from the Alliance’s radon background information and testing materials.
EPA has established a recommended action guideline of four picocuries of radon per liter (pCi/L) of air in residences. (A picocurie is a measure of radioactivity.) EPA recommends that action be taken to reduce radon levels when this guideline is exceeded. The presence of radon over the EPA standard is not a violation of local housing codes in most cities. The long-term goal is to reduce indoor radon levels to average outdoor levels of 0.4 picocuries per liter. Because of technology limits, EPA’s short-term goal is to achieve home radon concentrations below two picocuries per liter.
If test results exceed the EPA recommended action guideline of four pCi/L, a second follow-up measurement should be taken and depending on the results, EPA standards may recommend radon mitigation.
Reducing Exposure
If actions to mitigate radon are going to be taken in the home, there are many options within two broad categories of action:
Prevent
the radon from entering the home.
Reduce
the level of radon after it has entered.
For all options, EPA recommends that a contractor be retained to do the work and estimates that remediation will cost from $500 to $2500 per home, depending on the characteristics of the structure and choice of radon reduction methods. Common methods may involve the installation of underground pipes, venting fans, plastic sheeting, and/or sealants over floor and wall cracks.
Radon mitigation systems are great
ways to remove radon from your home, but they can be tricky to
install. DIY radon mitigation is no small feat, but for those
confident enough in their abilities we are providing step-by-step
instructions to a DIY Radon Mitigation system installation.
Why Do
it Yourself Radon Mitigation?
Radon mitigation system installation
can be expensive, and if you have radon you may feel like you cannot
avoid that expense. You certainly should not go without a mitigation
system over the long term if you know your home has high radon
levels. So, how do you mitigate the expense, as well as the radon?
Perform a DIY radon mitigation installation.
We hinted at this above, but it bears
repeating: installing a radon mitigation system is a serious task.
Check out the steps in this article to see if you’re up for it. If
any part of the installation steps make you uncomfortable, hire
someone to install your system. You’ll save yourself a lot of
headaches and time, and potentially money. Nothing is worse than
spending countless hours and dollars on a DIY radon mitigation
installation only to check your radon levels and see them stay the
same!
Basic
Overview of DIY Radon Mitigation
Installing a radon mitigation system
involves several steps. The basic goal of the system is to remove
radon from the home. Radon comes up from the ground, so the way this
is accomplished is by drilling a hole in the home’s foundation and
actively sucking the air up from the ground and expelling from the
house via the roof. You heard that right: the air must go from the
ground below the house, through the foundation, up through piping
that runs through the inside of the house, and up and out the roof.
So, the system will require running
PVC pipe through multiple stories or at the very least through a slab
of concrete and out through your roof. It also involves drilling
holes in your basement’s foundation and your roof, both of which
must be properly sealed to make sure no radon gets around the pipe in
the foundation and no moisture gets down through the roof.
The other crucial element to install
is the fan. A fan creates suction in the pipe, drawing air out of the
soil beneath the house and pushing it out above the house, allowing
it to disperse. The fan is situated in the attic or usually at the
top of the system. And if pipe does run through the attic, it should
be insulated to make sure the warm air from the bottom of the house
doesn’t hit cold air at the top of the house and cause moisture to
condense. It would be a shame to solve one problem, radon, only to
create another, moisture and mold in the attic.
The final element you’ll want to
have on your radon mitigation system is a pressure gauge (manometer),
usually just a fluid gauge that tells you the fan is working: it’s
creating a pressure differential in the pipe and therefore pulling
air up from the ground.
Of course, after your system is
installed you will want to use a radon detector to regularly monitor
the system and make sure it’s actually reducing the amount of radon
inside your home.
The next part of the article walks you
through exactly what you need and what to do to install a radon
mitigation system in your home. Steps for DIY Radon Mitigation
1. Get
Initial Radon Reading
The first step to mitigating the
radon in your home is to understand where radon levels are high in
your home and how high they are. To do this, you need a radon
detector. The detector you buy depends on your budget, but we
recommend a long-term detector. They are more expensive than
short-term detectors, but they tell you radon levels in your home for
years. Short-term detectors only give you readings over several days
and then they are done; they cannot be reused.
What’s more, you’re going to want
to monitor radon levels before, during, and after installation of the
system, so a long-term tester is actually more economical than buying
multiple short-term tests.
2. Age
of Structure
Knowing how old your home is will help
you plan the DIY radon mitigation system installation. If the home
was built before the 1970s, the fill used beneath your cement slab
foundation is probably not ideal. An ideal fill is porous, meaning it
lets gas breathe. This would allow you to suck out the air relatively
easily. A non-ideal fill is dense, either very wet earth or rock.
These require more effort as you need to figure out how to suck the
air through this dense earth and out through your system.
3.
Structure
Before you run pipe through your
foundation, home, and roof, you should analyze your home’s
structure for a couple key details.
First, additions. If sections of your
home were added on after the initial construction, you may need to
mitigate radon from multiple areas of your home. This would be the
case if your foundation slab is not fully continuous, meaning there
are pockets of air beneath your home each of which would require
different mitigation systems, complicating the DIY radon mitigation
system installation.
Second, current drainage systems. Do
you have a french drain or a drain tile inside the house that you can
use to draw radon up out of? If so, you may not need to drill through
the foundation slab.
Third, soil composition. You may be
able to call your home’s builder to find out what type of fill was
used beneath your foundation slab. If not, you can drill a hole and
check. You want a gravel-like fill because it promotes airflow. Wet
sand or earth allows much less airflow. If you have a wet earth
situation, you will need to put your arm into the hole you drill in
the foundation and dig out a foot or two in each direction. This
should allow the pipe, situated well above the bottom of the pit, to
pull up an adequate amount of air.
Last, current foundation compromises.
Check where pipes go through the foundation to make sure they are
fully sealed and plug up cracks, even hairline cracks, in the slab.
These efforts will make the slab airtight, allowing the mitigation
system to get a good level of suction.
4.
Planning the Pipe
You’ll want to use PVC pipe from 3
inches to 4 inches in diameter [no great options on Amazon]. This
means you’re going to need to drill 3–4 inch holes in different
levels of your home. Again, there are couple specific details to
consider about your particular home.
First, you will want to avoid running
the pipe through your living areas as it looks bad. So, is there a
path you can take that avoids frequented areas? Common solutions
include running it up from the basement into an attached garage and
out the garage’s roof, or else through a closet inside the home.
You do want to keep the PVC running inside the home to reduce
condensation and limit exposure to the elements–this helps the
system last longer.
Second, the pipe needs to come out of
your roof at a point that is at least 10 feet away from any windows
on a horizontal plane. This is because the pipe expels radon gas, and
if it’s too near a window it can come back into your house through
a window.
The pipe, which is often several
different pieces of pipe fitted together with necessary elbow or
other joints and PVC cement, must also extend 1 foot above the roof’s
surface.
You will need sandpaper
and a hacksaw (or
equivalent) to section the piping and debur it (which is necessary to
keep a tight seal).
5. Fan
Placement
You will need to place the fan
such that it is outside the living area of your house: in the attic,
in the garage, or outside (least preferred). This is required of a
radon mitigation system, as it protects you from a leak at the site
of the fan, which would result in a pooling of radon as the fan pulls
radon up but then fails to expel it from the home. This is why it’s
also essential to constantly monitor radon if you have a mitigation
system installed. The intake/outtake hole size of your radon
mitigation fan will dictate
the size of the PVC pipe you should buy.
6.
Drilling holes
Find a good location in your
foundation to drill. An ideal spot is near a wall that you can
bracket the PVC piping to.
Once you are ready to drill, measure a
hole slightly larger than your PVC diameter. Using a jackhammer,
drill through the foundation until you hit the fill below. Take
necessary steps if this fill is dense. You will probably want to have
a roto driller to help create the initial ground hole beneath your
foundation hole.
You will need to use a handsaw or a
wide-diameter drill to get through the various walls, floors, and
roofs involved in running the pipe from the foundation to the roof.
7.
Laying pipe
Run the pipe from your roof to your
basement. Start with the roof and make sure the entire piping system
is sealed and bracketed in place from the roof to the basement. As
part of this process you will need to attach the fan to the piping
structure, ideally in an attic-like space. If the piping does run
through a space that might be a different temperature than the rest
of the house (attics and garages), insulate the piping in those
space. This helps you avoid condensation on the piping. Put the final
pipe in the hole you’ve drilled in the foundation and seal it into
the system. You’re now ready to make the whole thing airtight.
8.
Sealing Holes
You’re going to want to caulk and
hydraulic cement to seal the roof and foundation respectively. You
should also have some backer rod to fill the space between the PVC
pipe and the foundation hole before applying hydraulic cement to the
seam.
9.
Testing the System
Finally, you need to make sure your
system mitigates radon. To do this, turn on the fan and, with a small
hole at another point in the foundation (drilled for testing
purposes) use a smoking piece of burning paper to see if air is being
sucked into that hole. This tells you the system is up and running,
sucking air from across the foundation to the site of the mitigation
piping. Finally, install a manometer on the basement piping, which
will tell you whether or not the system is creating the pressure
differential necessary to suck air up from the ground.
Product
List for DIY Radon Mitigation:
3-4”
PVC (depending on intake/outtake hole of your fan)
Elbow
joints as needed by your home’s structure
Piping
insulation (depends on the size of your PVC)
Piping
brackets (depends on the size of your PVC)
PVC
cement
Radon
Mitigation Fan
Manometer
Hydraulic
cement
Backer
rod
Hacksaw
Sandpaper
to debur the pipe
Jackhammer
(suggest renting rather than buying)
Roto
driller (suggest renting rather than buying)
Buzz saw
Summary
You have a lot to think about in undertaking a DIY radon mitigation system installation. If you are comfortable with all these steps, you can do the job yourself. Most often, however, people
should get a system professionally installed. And after the
installation of your radon mitigation system, it’s important to
keep testing for radon. You wouldn’t want to stop checking radon,
trust the system, and then not notice a system malfunction. So, a
long-term radon detector is also a good investment as you install
your radon mitigation system.
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA) and the Surgeon General’s Office have estimated that as many as 20,000 lung cancer deaths are caused each year by radon. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Radon-induced lung cancer costs the United States over $2 billion dollars per year in both direct and indirect health care costs.
According to the US EPA, nearly 1 in 3 homes checked in seven states and
on three Indian lands had screening levels over 4 pCi/L, the EPA’s
recommended action level for radon exposure.
The alpha radiation emitted by radon is the same alpha radiation emitted
by other alpha generating radiation sources such as plutonium.
A family whose home has radon levels of 4 pCi/L is exposed to
approximately 35 times as much radiation as the Nuclear Regulatory
Commission would allow if that family was standing next to the fence of a
radioactive waste site.
An elementary school student that spends 8 hours per day and 180 days
per year in a classroom with 4 pCi/L of radon will receive nearly 10
times as much radiation as the Nuclear Regulatory Commission allows at
the edge of a nuclear power plant.
Most U.S. EPA lifetime safety standards for carcinogens are established
based on a 1 in 100,000 risks of death. Most scientists agree that the
risk of death for radon at 4 pCi/L is approximately 1 in 100. At the 4
pCi/L EPA action guideline level, radon carries approximately 1000 times
the risk of death as any other EPA carcinogen. It is important to note
that the activity level is not a safe level, as there are no “safe”
levels of radon gas.
What is radon?
A layman’s description
Radon is a cancer-causing radioactive gas. You cannot see, smell or
taste radon, but it may be a problem in your home. The Surgeon General
has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the
United States today. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels,
you’re at high risk for developing lung cancer. Some scientific studies
of radon exposure indicate that children may be more sensitive to radon.
This may be due to their higher respiration rate and their rapidly
dividing cells, which may be more vulnerable to radiation damage.
A Scientific Description
PROPERTIES: Radon is a gaseous highly radioactive element
discovered by English physicist Ernest Rutherford in 1899. The discovery
is also credited to German physicist Friedrich Ernst Dorn in 1900. More
specifically, Rutherford discovered radon’s alpha radiation and Dorn
discovered that radium was releasing a gas.
Radon is a colorless chemically-unreactive inert gas. The atomic radius
is 1.34 angstroms and it is the heaviest known gas–radon is nine times
denser than air. Because it is a single atom gas (unlike oxygen, O2,
which is comprised of two atoms) it easily penetrates many common
materials like paper, leather, low-density plastic (like plastic bags,
etc.) most paints, and building materials like gypsum board (sheetrock),
concrete block, mortar, sheathing paper (tar paper), wood paneling, and
most insulations.
Radon
is also fairly soluble in water and organic solvents. Although reaction
with other compounds is comparatively rare, it is not completely inert
and forms stable molecules with highly electronegative materials. Radon
is considered a noble gas that occurs in several isotopic forms. Only
two are found in significant concentrations in the human environment:
radon-222, and radon-220. Radon-222 is a member of the radioactive decay
chain of uranium-238. Radon-220 is formed in the decay chain of
thorium-232. Radon-222 decays in a sequence of radionuclides called
radon decay products, radon daughters, or radon progeny. It is radon-222
that most readily occurs in the environment. Atmospheric releases of
radon-222 results in the formation of decay products that are
radioisotopes of heavy metals (polonium, lead, bismuth) and rapidly
attach to other airborne materials such as dust and other materials
facilitating inhalation.
USE: Radon has been used in some spas for presumed medical
effects. In addition, radon is used to initiate and influence chemical
reactions and as a surface label in the study of surface reactions. It
has been obtained by pumping the gasses off of a solution of a radium
salt, sparking the gas mixture to combine the hydrogen and oxygen,
removing the water and carbon dioxide by adsorption, and freezing out
the radon.
PRODUCTION: Radon is not produced as a commercial product. Radon
is a naturally occurring radioactive gas and comes from the natural
breakdown (radioactive decay) of uranium. It is usually found in igneous
rock and soil, but in some cases, well water may also be a source of
radon.
EXPOSURE: The primary routes of potential human exposure to radon
are inhalation and ingestion. Radon in the ground, groundwater, or
building materials enters working and living spaces and disintegrates
into its decay products. Although high concentrations of radon in
groundwater may contribute to radon exposure through ingestion, the
inhalation of radon released from water is usually more important.
RADON IN THE WORKPLACE: In comparison with levels in outdoor air,
humans in confined air spaces, particularly in underground work areas
such as mines and buildings, are exposed to elevated concentrations of
radon and its decay products. Exhalation of radon from ordinary rock and
soils and from radon-rich water can cause significant radon
concentrations in tunnels, power stations, caves, public baths, and
spas. The average radon concentrations in houses are generally much
lower than the average radon concentrations in underground ore mines.
Workers are exposed to radon in several occupations. In countries for
which data were available, concentrations of radon decay products in
underground mines are now typically less than 1000 Bq/m3 EEC Rn (approx.
28 pCi/L). Underground uranium miners are exposed to the highest levels
of radon and its decay products. Other underground workers and certain
mineral processing workers may also be exposed to significant levels.
Should you test for radon?
Testing is the only way to know your home’s radon levels. There are no
immediate symptoms that will alert you to the presence of radon. It
typically takes years of exposure before any problems surface. The US
EPA, Surgeon General, American Lung Association, American Medical
Association, and National Safety Council recommend testing your home for
radon because testing is the only way to know your home’s radon levels.
Radon is a national environmental health problem. Elevated radon levels
have been discovered in every state. The US EPA estimates that as many
as 8 million homes throughout the country have elevated levels of radon.
Current state surveys show that 1 home in 5 has elevated radon levels.
Can you fix the problem?
If your home has high concentrations of radon there are ways to reduce
it to acceptable levels. Most radon problems can be fixed by a
do-it-yourselfer for less than $500. If you want or require the
assistance of a professional you may wish to look at the list of
certified radon mitigators for your state.
Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas produced by the breakdown of uranium in rocks and soils. Radon gas is tasteless, colorless and odorless. The only way to know if it is in your home is to test for it.
Is radon a problem in Tennessee?
Yes. The Tennessee Department of Environment and Conservation (TDEC) considers radon to be a very serious problem in our state. No matter where you live in Tennessee, there is the potential for radon to enter your home. Regardless of your zone designation or geographic location, all homes should be tested for radon. There is no zone that has no risk factor for radon.
Click on the map to view radon test results across Tennessee. The data displayed is not to be used as a measure of predicting whether an untested home does or does not have radon. The Tennessee Department of Health and the Tennessee Radon Program support the standing of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency that every home should be tested in order to know that home’s radon level. In zip codes with few radon results, there is low confidence that the reported average is representative of radon levels in that area. This map is only for informational purposes. All test results are from do-it-yourself tests done by home owners or tests done by radon measurement professionals. The Tennessee Department of Health and the Tennessee Radon Program are unable to verify the validity of the testing protocols or the physical location where the test kit was reported to have been conducted.
What are the health effects of radon?
Radon gas has been identified as the second leading cause of lung cancer, second only to cigarette smoking. Radon is responsible for about 21,000 lung cancer deaths every year. About 2,900 of these deaths occur among people who have never smoked. As radon gas breaks down, it emits high-energy alpha particles. These particles are in the air we breathe, and once inhaled, they can be deposited in our lungs. The energy associated with these particles can alter cell DNA, thus increasing the risk of lung cancer. Persons who smoke and live in a home with elevated radon levels are at a very high risk to develop lung cancer. Fortunately, radon does not generally present a health risk outdoors because it is diluted in the open air. Radon can, however, build up to dangerous levels inside a house, any other buildings, or caves.
How does radon enter my home?
Radon is a radioactive gas that comes from the soil. Most homes and
buildings are constructed atop the soil on a property. Air pressure
inside your home is usually lower than pressure in the soil beneath and
around your home’s foundation. Because of this difference in air
pressure, your house acts like a vacuum, drawing radon in through
foundation cracks and other openings. Radon may also be present in well
water and can be released into the air in your home when water is used
for showering and other household uses. In most cases, radon entering
the home through water is a small risk compared with radon entering your
home from the soil.
How much radon is dangerous to my health?
Radon is measured in picocuries per liter of air or pCi/L. The average
concentration of radon in outdoor air is 0.4 pCi/L. The average radon
concentration in the indoor air of America’s homes is about 1.3 pCi/L
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has established 4 pCi/L
as an action level in which one should initiate measures to reduce the
amount of radon in a home. However, there is no safe level of radon. The
EPA recommends that if the radon level detected in a home is between 2
and 4 pCi/L, steps should be taken to reduce it to below 2 pCi/L.
How can I test for radon in my home?
Testing for radon in your home is very easy to do. Test your home for
radon! There are no exceptions! Every home in Tennessee should be tested
especially when you consider the fact that radon related lung cancer
kills approximately 21,000 people each year.
The Tennessee Department of Environment and Conservation (TDEC) operates
a statewide indoor Radon Program as part of the Office of Sustainable
Practices. They offer a number of services and assistance such as test
kits for homeowners, technical information for universities, and
specific materials for targeted audiences such as real estate
professionals, home builders, building codes officials, home inspectors,
and school officials.
I tested my home and the radon level was over 4pCi/L, what can I do?
If the results of your radon test exceeded 4 pCi/L, TDEC and EPA
recommend that a follow-up test be conducted. If the follow-up test
results (or the average of the two tests) also exceed 4 pCi/L, it is
recommended that your home should be fixed to reduce the radon levels.
How do I get my home fixed and who can do that type of work?
There are several ways to reduce or remove radon from a home. Generally,
how your home was constructed will dictate the mitigation method which
will be appropriate.
In some cases, a homeowner can research the type of radon mitigation
systems available, purchase the necessary materials, and install an
appropriate mitigation system themselves. However, in many cases,
professional help will be needed to install a radon mitigation system.
Commercial companies can be hired to install a radon mitigation system.
There are many types of radon mitigation systems. Some examples are
discussed in EPA’s Consumer Guide to Radon Reduction. Commercial
companies that do radon work are not regulated by the state.
Two groups who train radon professionals are the National Radon
Proficiency Program (NRPP) and the National Radon Safety Board(NRSB).
Using these two external websites, you can locate a trained radon
professional to measure or mitigate radon.
Be sure to check the type of certification the mitigator holds to ensure
the company or person is appropriately credentialed to perform the job.
It is advisable to check companies with your local Better Business
Bureau (BBB) to better ensure they are reputable. Due to the potential
expense involved in the installation of a mitigation system, it is also
recommended that the homeowner obtain bids from several companies.
After a home radon mitigation system has been installed, follow-up radon
testing should be conducted to ensure the system is working properly.
Radon-resistant new construction
Building a New Home? Consider radon-resistant new construction. New
homes can be built to resist radon entry. The additional cost at the
time of construction is minimal. When installed properly, the basic
radon-resistant new construction techniques greatly reduce the lung
cancer risk that may occur from radon in the home. When it comes time to
sell your home, radon-resistant features can be an important selling
point for health-conscious home-buyers. For additional information on
radon-resistant new construction read EPA’s publication Building Radon
Out.
Testing soil prior to building cannot predict what the radon levels will
be once a home is completed. It is cheaper to install a radon reduction
system during construction than to go back and fix a radon problem
later. Installing radon-resistant features during construction
typically costs about $350 to $500. In contrast, retrofitting an
existing home can cost between $800 and $2,500. It is much easier and
far less costly to prepare the subgrade and install pipe to improve soil
gas flow before a foundation slab is cast.
A basic (passive) system can effectively reduce radon levels by 50%.
Radon-resistant new construction incorporates techniques to seal soil
gas entry points, prevent radon gas intrusion, and vent the radon
outdoors. The techniques and materials needed to install a system are
commonly used in construction. The features can also decrease moisture
entering the home, reducing the risk for mold and other indoor air
problems. If these features are already in the plans as a means of
moisture control or energy efficiency, then the actual cost may be as
low as $100 or less. Homes with a passive system can be upgraded to an
active system with the installation of an in-line fan that can further
reduce radon levels. After occupancy, all homes should be tested for
radon, even those built with radon-resistant features.
INDIANAPOLIS—Call 6 Investigates has uncovered that most Indiana schools do not test for radon gas, a carcinogen known to cause lung cancer, despite federal recommendations that all schools test at least once every five years. Radon is a radioactive, naturally occurring gas that seeps into buildings from the surrounding soil.
It’s the number one cause of lung cancer among non-smokers, killing an estimated 600 people a year in Indiana and roughly 20,000 people across the country.
Central Indiana students and teachers spend a lot of their time in schools, and that’s why the EPA recommends schools test for radon but Call 6 Investigates found most school districts aren’t doing it.
A RADON SURVIVOR: “IT’S LIKE A DIRTY BOMB”
Annie Cacciato is a wife, a mother, and a survivor.
“I have stage four lung cancer,” said Cacciato.
Diagnosed in 2013, Cacciato had never smoked.
Although there’s no way to prove what caused her lung cancer, radon is the prime suspect.
Following her diagnosis, Cacciato learned her workplace and high school contained toxic levels of radon.
“I was in shock,” said Cacciato.
EPA’s nationwide survey of radon levels in schools estimates that nearly one in five has at least one schoolroom with a radon level above the action level of 4 pCi/L (picoCuries per liter) – the level at which EPA recommends that schools take action to reduce the level. Cacciato said her workplace tested at 25 pCi/L and her school tested at 24 pCi/L and “There are thousands of children in schools right now breathing in air, day after day, that is damaging their lungs,” said Cacciato. “It’s a like dirty bomb in the building.”
Cacciato has been fighting for her life for five years and wants to prevent others from going through lung cancer.
“I look healthy, but my lungs are filled with cancer,” said Cacciato. “With radon, it just seems to be this very elusive problem that people are very indifferent to, they don’t understand they don’t educate, and they don’t believe it. You wouldn’t just let a fire go off in your house and leave it burning forever.”
INDIANA SCHOOLS NOT TESTING DESPITE EPA RECOMMENDATION
Radon is odorless, colorless and tasteless, and the only way to know if it’s there is to test for it.
The EPA recommends schools test at least once every five years. Call 6 Investigates surveyed dozens of schools and analyzed Indiana State Department of Health data and found of the state’s 289 public school corporations only 4% have tested for radon in the last decade. “Let’s just call it out for what it is—it’s negligence,” said Cacciato. RTV6 found large districts with thousands of students like Wayne Township, Carmel Clay, Perry Township, Mt. Vernon, Lawrence Township and Westfield haven’t tested for radon in the last ten years. Some districts pointed out Indiana does not require schools or daycares to test for radon.
A dozen states have laws or regulations in place that require or encourage radon testing in schools including Illinois, Colorado, Florida, Virginia, Oregon, Connecticut, Iowa, Minnesota, and Nebraska.
DISTRICT SHOWS HIGH RESULTS, BUT ACTION REMAINS UNCLEAR
Call 6 Investigates uncovered the Bartholomew Consolidated School Corporation found dangerous of levels of radon in 2013, and it’s unclear, what if anything they did about it. The EPA recommends schools take action to mitigate when the radon level hits 4 pCi/L or above.
It’s
winter, so public health advocates once again are urging North
Carolinians to test their homes for radon contamination.
There is good reason to listen up.
Unlike some states, North Carolina does not require builders to use construction techniques known to shield homes from radon, a known cause of lung cancer. So people dwelling in new and older untested structures remain at risk here.
It’s winter, so public health advocates once again are urging North Carolinians to test their homes for radon contamination.
There is good reason to listen up.
Unlike some states, North Carolina does not require builders to use
construction techniques known to shield homes from radon, a known cause
of lung cancer. So people dwelling in new and older untested structures
remain at risk here.
Radon gas can seep into a home through: cracks or gaps in floors,
construction joints, cracks in walls, gaps around pipes, cavities in
walls, contaminated well water. Source: EPA
Invisible, odorless and cancer-causing, radon gas has been found in
homes, even schools, across this state, with structures in western and
some central counties at particular risk due to the geology beneath
them.
“You can have radon in any home. The only way to know for sure is to
test,” said Catherine Rosfjord, a branch manager in the Radiation
Protection Section of the North Carolina Department of Health and Human
Services.
County and state health programs, as well as NC State Extension,
take pains, especially in winter when people are indoors, to warn about
this stealth risk and urge people to avoid fly-by-night help if they do
detect the gas in their homes.
In January, county health departments began handing out free radon testing kits obtained from the state.
Guilford County health workers, when funding was available, have gone
door to door. They’ve also tutored families with newborns about radon,
offering them free kits and educational material about ways to protect a
family.
Educators always stress that if a neighbor tapes a free test kit to a
wall or fan blade and turns up no evidence of gas, that doesn’t mean
everyone nearby is safe, said Paula Cox, an environmental health manager
in Guilford.
“The Piedmont is really interesting because there are pockets where you
can have high levels of radon and just down the road it’s fine,” Cox
said.
Invisible risk
There is no preventing the production of radon gas but there are steps that shield structures and the people who dwell in them.
Radon gas occurs naturally, produced when uranium breaks down in rocks
underground. North Carolina, particularly the Piedmont and Blue Ridge
Mountain regions, sits atop gneiss, schist and granite, rock types with
higher than average concentrations of uranium.
Among non-smokers, radon is the leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. The EPA has estimated that radon exposure contributes to about 21,000 deaths each year.
decays
into damaging, radioactive particles that can get trapped in people’s
lungs. If concentration of the gas reaches above 4 pCi/L, steps should
be taken to reduce the concentration, the EPA says. (A pCi is a measure
of the rate of radioactive decay. One pCi is one trillionth of a Curie,
0.037 disintegrations per second.)
The North Carolina Radiation Protection office reviewed radon tests taken
in 23,448 classrooms in 94 counties in the 1990s. The review indicated
that approximately 11 percent of the classrooms tested had radon
concentrations greater than 4 pCi/L.
Unregulated in NC
As of 2015, nine states required that new construction
in at least some cases be made radon-resistant, according to the
National Conference of State Legislatures. In 23 states, either state or
local (county or municipal) rules require the same. Twenty five states
require that radon inspectors and people hired to eliminate radon
contamination be licensed.
Before selling a property, a North Carolina homeowner must disclose if
radon has been detected at levels exceeding government safety standards
at an address. But otherwise, state law doesn’t require government
intervention in preventing or reducing radon exposure, Rosfjord said.
“There had been some effort to regulate the radon industry in terms of
the people who test homes and mitigate [install protective piping] in
homes. But we discovered we don’t have authority to regulate naturally
occurring radiation,” Rosfjord said.
Health advocates here brief people on how to best proceed if testing
with a low-cost kit like those handed out by counties turns up signs of
trouble.
Unable to recommend any single company or person, the NC Radon Program urges people
to seek out organizations that award radon testing certificates to find
trained testers. If contamination is confirmed, and passive piping
systems or piping with a fan to move the gas is required, the state
program suggests hiring people certified for that work, too.
People who can’t afford the roughly $1,200 the protective construction work can cost are eligible for financial help in this state, either through subsidies or low-cost loans.
Rosfjord said her colleagues have been working in recent years to
recruit the medical community to help them spread the word of health
risks from radon.
One
sign of success is the commitment to promoting radon testing and
protection in homes, schools, workplaces and community buildings in the
most recent North Carolina Comprehensive Cancer Control Plan, she said.
“On the health aspect we’re doing well,” she said. “Some other states
are more active in creating building codes and getting schools tested.”
Radon gas can seep into a home through: cracks or gaps in floors,
construction joints, cracks in walls, gaps around pipes, cavities in
walls, contaminated well water. Source: EPA
Invisible, odorless and cancer-causing, radon gas has been found
in homes, even schools, across this state, with structures in western
and some central counties at particular risk due to the geology
beneath them.
“You can have radon in any home. The only way to know for sure
is to test,” said Catherine Rosfjord, a branch manager in the
Radiation Protection Section of the North Carolina Department of
Health and Human Services.
County and state health programs, as well as NC
State Extension, take pains, especially in winter when people are
indoors, to warn about this stealth risk and urge people to avoid
fly-by-night help if they do detect the gas in their homes.
In January, county health departments began handing out free radon
testing kits obtained from the state.
Guilford County health workers, when funding was available, have
gone door to door. They’ve also tutored families with newborns
about radon, offering them free kits and educational material about
ways to protect a family.
Educators always stress that if a neighbor tapes a free test kit
to a wall or fan blade and turns up no evidence of gas, that doesn’t
mean everyone nearby is safe, said Paula Cox, an environmental health
manager in Guilford.
“The Piedmont is really interesting because there are pockets
where you can have high levels of radon and just down the road it’s
fine,” Cox said.
Invisible risk
There is no preventing the production of radon gas but there are
steps that shield structures and the people who dwell in them.
Radon gas occurs naturally, produced when uranium breaks down in
rocks underground. North Carolina, particularly the Piedmont and Blue
Ridge Mountain regions, sits atop gneiss, schist and granite, rock
types with higher than average concentrations of uranium.
Among non-smokers, radon is the leading cause of lung cancer in
the United States. The EPA has estimated
that radon exposure contributes to about 21,000 deaths each year.
Radon gas is dangerous because it
decays into damaging, radioactive particles that can get trapped
in people’s lungs. If concentration of the gas reaches above 4
pCi/L, steps should be taken to reduce the concentration, the EPA
says. (A pCi is a measure of the rate of radioactive decay. One pCi
is one trillionth of a Curie, 0.037 disintegrations per second.)
The North Carolina Radiation Protection office reviewed radon
tests taken in 23,448
classrooms in 94 counties in the 1990s. The review indicated that
approximately 11 percent of the classrooms tested had radon
concentrations greater than 4 pCi/L.
Unregulated in NC
As of 2015, nine states required
that new construction in at least some cases be made
radon-resistant, according to the National Conference of State
Legislatures. In 23 states, either state or local (county or
municipal) rules require the same. Twenty five states require that
radon inspectors and people hired to eliminate radon contamination be
licensed.
Before selling a property, a North Carolina homeowner must
disclose if radon has been detected at levels exceeding government
safety standards at an address. But otherwise, state law doesn’t
require government intervention in preventing or reducing radon
exposure, Rosfjord said.
“There had been some effort to regulate the radon industry in
terms of the people who test homes and mitigate [install protective
piping] in homes. But we discovered we don’t have authority to
regulate naturally occurring radiation,” Rosfjord said.
Health advocates here brief people on how to best proceed if
testing with a low-cost kit like those handed out by counties turns
up signs of trouble.
Unable to recommend any single company or person, the NC Radon
Program urges people
to seek out organizations that award radon testing certificates to
find trained testers. If contamination is confirmed, and passive
piping systems or piping with a fan to move the gas is required, the
state program suggests
hiring people certified for that work, too.
People who can’t afford the roughly $1,200 the protective
construction work can cost are eligible for financial
help in this state, either through subsidies or low-cost loans.
Rosfjord said her colleagues have been working in recent years to
recruit the medical community to help them spread the word of health
risks from radon.
One sign of success is the commitment to promoting radon testing
and protection in homes, schools, workplaces and community buildings
in the most recent North
Carolina Comprehensive Cancer Control Plan, she said.
“On the health aspect we’re doing well,” she said. “Some
other states are more active in creating building codes and getting
schools tested.”
radon1 